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Ukuleles

How to change ukulele strings

The job takes twenty minutes and the instrument then refuses to stay in tune for three days. Both of those are normal, and only one of them is avoidable.

By Sawyer V. · Published · Last updated

A ukulele on a table with a fresh set of strings beside it

Changing ukulele strings is the one piece of maintenance every owner eventually needs and it is different enough from a guitar to catch people out. There is no ball end and no bridge pin: the string is tied, and if it is tied wrong it slips out under tension.

Work one string at a time or all four together — the tension is low enough that it does not matter. Tie the string at the bridge, thread and wind at the tuner, then expect two to four days of the instrument going flat while the nylon stretches. Stretching each string by hand as you go roughly halves that.

What you need

A new set of strings, a tuner and something to cut with. That is the entire list.

The Aquila Super Nylgut ukulele strings#ad set is the default and the reason is straightforward: it is what a large share of decent ukuleles ship with from the factory, including our standard soprano recommendation. If you are replacing tired factory strings on a cheap instrument, this is also the single cheapest upgrade available to a ukulele and it changes the tone more than anything else you could spend the same money on.

A Snark clip-on chromatic tuner#ad matters more than usual during a string change, because you will be tuning repeatedly over the following days and reading vibration through the headstock works in a room with other noise in it.

Match the set to the size. Soprano, concert and tenor take different sets because the scale lengths differ, and a soprano set on a tenor ends up at the wrong tension. Which size you have is settled in soprano versus concert versus tenor.

Step one: identify the bridge

Ukuleles use one of two bridge types and the procedure differs at that end only.

A tie-bar bridge has a bar with four holes drilled through it. The string passes through and is knotted so the knot jams against the back of the bar. This is the most common type and the one that requires an actual technique.

A slotted or bead bridge has slots that a knotted or beaded string end drops into. Much simpler: tie a knot big enough not to pull through, seat it, done.

Look before you remove the old strings. It is considerably easier to copy what was there than to work it out from a bare bridge.

Step two: off with the old

Slacken each string at the tuner until it is loose, unwind it from the post, and free the bridge end. Nylon under low tension is harmless when it lets go, unlike a steel string.

With the strings off, wipe the fretboard. This is the only time it is properly accessible, and the grime that accumulates between the frets is exactly what people later buy specialist products to remove. A dry cloth handles it. If the board is unfinished rosewood and looks gray and dry, a very small amount of fretboard conditioner once a year is reasonable — and no more than that, because over-oiling swells the wood around the fret slots.

Step three: tie at the bridge

For a tie-bar bridge:

Pass the string through the hole from the front, leaving two or three inches spare on the far side. Bring that tail back over the top of the bar toward the soundhole, then tuck it under itself to form a loop, and pass the tail through that loop — twice for the two thin strings, which are the ones that slip.

Pull the long end while holding the tail so the knot draws tight against the back edge of the bar. Check that the knot has seated behind the bar rather than on top of it, and that the tail is not lying under the saddle where it would lift the string off its correct height.

For a slotted bridge: tie a simple overhand knot near the end of the string, or use the molded bead if the set has one, and seat it in the slot. That is the whole job.

Step four: wind at the tuner

Thread the string through the hole in the tuner post, leaving enough slack that you can get two or three winds around the post — roughly one to two inches of extra string. Too little slack and the string slips; too much and you build an untidy stack that slowly compresses and reads as the instrument going flat.

Wind so the string goes down the post, with each turn below the last. That increases the break angle over the nut, which keeps the string seated properly in its slot.

Keep tension on the string with your other hand while winding, and guide the coils so they sit neatly side by side. A tidy wind is most of what separates a ukulele that settles in two days from one that seems to drift for two weeks.

Bring it up to roughly the right pitch, then move to the next string.

Step five: stretch them, then keep tuning

This is the part that is skipped and then complained about.

Nylon and fluorocarbon strings stretch substantially when first brought to tension, and they keep stretching for days. A freshly strung ukulele will go flat within minutes of being tuned, repeatedly.

You can force most of that to happen immediately. With the string at pitch, hook a finger under it near the twelfth fret and pull it gently away from the fretboard — firmly enough to feel it give, not hard enough to worry you. The pitch will drop sharply. Retune, repeat three or four times per string, and the string will hold noticeably better.

After that, expect two to four days of retuning every time you pick it up. That is the strings settling, not a fault. The tuning itself, including which tuning your ukulele is actually in, is covered in how to tune a ukulele.

Trim the ends, and one warning

Once everything holds pitch, cut the excess at the tuners, leaving a few millimeters. Long tails buzz against the headstock and are surprisingly effective at finding eyes.

The warning: never fit steel guitar strings. It gets suggested online occasionally and it destroys ukuleles. A ukulele top and bridge are built for the tension of four nylon strings; steel strings sit at several times that, and the result is a lifted bridge or a bellied top. Use strings made for the instrument and the size.

When strings are not the problem

If a ukulele still will not hold pitch on fresh, settled, correctly fitted strings, the strings were never the issue. The usual culprits are friction tuners that need their tension screw tightening, or a nut whose slots pinch the string so it releases in jumps rather than moving smoothly.

On very cheap instruments it can also be a molded plastic nut and saddle, which is a hardware limit rather than something maintenance fixes — the distinction we draw in are cheap ukuleles worth it. The rest of the kit worth owning is in ukulele accessories you actually need.

What we would buy

Aquila Super Nylgut ukulele strings

Aquila

Best for: The cheapest real upgrade

No product photo on file yet
8.4/10
Starter Path: The honest floor

The string set most good ukuleles ship with from the factory, and the single most transformative thing you can do to an inexpensive one that did not.

Published specifications

Material:
Super Nylgut synthetic
Tuning:
Standard GCEA
Fits:
Soprano, concert or tenor — buy the set for your size

What it gets right

  • Louder and brighter than the generic nylon fitted to cheap ukuleles, with far more sustain
  • They settle and hold pitch faster than plain nylon, which shortens the miserable first week of constant retuning
  • Cheap enough that it is the obvious first upgrade on any instrument that did not come with them

Where it gives ground

  • Sets are size-specific, and a soprano set on a tenor will not reach
  • New strings of any kind stretch for a few days before they settle

What it is not good at

Fixing a bad instrument. New strings cure a dull sound; they do nothing for intonation error, which is built into the bridge position and cannot be strung out.

How the specs score against a beginner’s needs

Holds tune9
Intonation7
Size fit8
Strings and setup10
Room to grow8

Scores are our reading of the published specifications above against what a beginner physically needs. They are not test results — we have not played this instrument.

Specifications from Kala Brand Music — KA-15S, fitted with Aquila Super Nylgut from the factory.

Snark clip-on chromatic tuner

Snark

Best for: Tuning anything with strings

No product photo on file yet
9.0/10
Starter Path: The honest floor

Clips to the headstock and reads pitch from the vibration of the wood, so it works in a noisy room and an adult who plays nothing can tune the instrument in twenty seconds.

Published specifications

Type:
Clip-on chromatic
Sensing:
Vibration through the headstock, not the microphone
Fits:
Guitar, bass, ukulele, violin, mandolin
Display:
Full-color rotating screen

What it gets right

  • Vibration sensing means it works in a room with a television on, which a microphone tuner does not
  • Chromatic, so one tuner covers every instrument in the house
  • The rotating display means it reads correctly whichever way the instrument is held

Where it gives ground

  • The clip is plastic and it is the part that eventually breaks
  • Battery-powered, and it will be flat the one time you need it in a hurry

What it is not good at

Wind and brass instruments. It reads vibration through a solid body, so there is nothing for it to clip to on a flute or a trumpet.

How the specs score against a beginner’s needs

Holds tune10
Intonation9
Size fit10
Strings and setup9
Room to grow9

Scores are our reading of the published specifications above against what a beginner physically needs. They are not test results — we have not played this instrument.

Specifications from Snark tuners (retail listing with published feature set).

Questions people actually ask

How often should you change ukulele strings?

Roughly once a year for a player practicing most days, or whenever the strings stop holding pitch, look grooved where they cross the frets, or sound dull. Nylon strings last far longer than steel guitar strings because they do not corrode.

Why won't my new ukulele strings stay in tune?

Because nylon stretches. A new set will drift flat repeatedly for the first two to four days regardless of how well it was fitted. Retune every time you pick it up and the problem resolves itself; nothing is wrong with the instrument.

Can you put guitar strings on a ukulele?

No. Steel guitar strings sit at several times the tension a ukulele is built for and will pull the bridge off or distort the top. Ukuleles take nylon or fluorocarbon strings made for the scale length.

Do I change all four strings at once?

Either way is fine on a ukulele. Tension is low enough that removing all four at once does not stress the neck, and doing so makes it much easier to clean the fretboard while it is clear.

Sources

Still deciding?

Every recommendation on this site is built the same way, and the method is published in full — including what we do not do and what would get a pick dropped.

  • How to tune a ukulele

    GCEA explained, using a clip-on tuner, why new strings drift for a week, and when tuning is not the problem.

  • Ukulele accessories you actually need

    The three items that genuinely matter, the best cheap upgrade, and what a bundle is really padding with.

  • How to look after a ukulele

    The 40 to 60 per cent rule, the early warning signs of a dry instrument, and what genuinely needs cleaning versus what does not.

  • Are cheap ukuleles worth it?

    The intonation failure that cannot be repaired, what causes it, and the two specs that tell you whether an instrument has it.

  • How to change guitar strings

    The full sequence for electric and acoustic, the three common mistakes, and why new strings drift for a day.